The fiddle leaf fig from the ficus genus of trees is an exciting species to grow as a houseplant. It has larger leaves than the others from the genus.
This indoor tree-type plant grows over 15 meters tall in its natural habitat and up to 3 meters indoors, although it can be topped to prevent it from growing taller. When these plants mature in age and size they make a great focal point within living rooms, hallways, offices, or hotels.

Description
This fiddle leaf fig is native to West Africa. It is grown indoors for its attractive semi-lobed and oval-shaped leaves, which all seem to grow to different sizes. The name fiddle given to this plant comes from its kind of fiddle (violin) shaped leaves).
This ficus is a slow-growing plant. It may take up to 10 -15 years to reach full maturity, but after 3 or 4 years of growth, it starts to become an attractive tree-like ornamental house plant.
Leaves and trunk: You’ll see by the picture to the left the leaves have prominent veins through the center and from the center to the edge of the leaves. These leaves have a glossy appearance and grow up to 12 inches long and 5 inches or wider. The trunk (although it’s strong) is quite an odd one that grows very thin but long, which makes the plant a bushy type of tree and full at the top without lower leaves.
Displaying:Â These grow well in greenhouses, nurseries, and conservatories because they enjoy high-lighting conditions. They’re the type of plant that looks great near doorways, hallways, fireplaces, and other featured parts of a room, although enough light will need to be provided – wherever they are seated.
Flowering: In their natural habitat and outdoors fiddle leaf plants will produce flowers and then fruits, however, indoors it rarely happens.
Care level: I would say this ficus plant seems to be a little harder to care for than the F. elastica (rubber plant) which is mainly due to its need for light and its’ sensitivity to losing leaves. The worst thing to do is over water. Also, allowing the soil to dry too much with low humidity levels will cause leaves to turn brown and unattractive. It’s not quite a beginner plant and in no need of an expert – so most growers will be fine.
Facts
Origin: | Western Africa. |
Names: | Fiddle leaf fig tree (common). — Ficus lyrata, [syn.] Ficus pandurata (botanical/scientific). |
Max Growth (approx): | Height 10ft (3m). |
Poisonous for pets: | Toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. |

Fiddle Leaf Plant Care
Temperature: | Temperatures between 60 – 75°F (15 – 24°C are suitable. Avoid lower than 55°F (12°C). |
Light: | A brightly lit spot of indirect light is needed without direct sunlight, although a small amount of daily sun is good (not mid-afternoon sun). |
Watering: | Water when the top soil becomes slightly dry and reduces watering in the winter. The worst thing to do is to overwater (not underwater) because the lack of water is easily fixed, unlike the root rot damage from over-watering. |
Soil: | A good draining potting soil is needed which could include part bark and perlite. |
Fertilizer: | The ficus lyata does not have a strong need for fertilizer as some other ficus trees have. During the spring and summer, I would provide the plant with a feed of diluted liquid fertilizer once a month. |
Repotting: | It’s advisable for the average indoor grower not to propagate these because they’re difficult, although it’s worth trying. If you try you will need to take stem tip cuttings, add rooting hormone to the cut, and replant them. Once planted use bottom heat to improve your chance of success. Air layering is also a method used to propagate these, which is more successful but difficult for most indoor growers. |
Humidity: | Normal room humidity is fine, but increase the humidity during the winter if artificial heating is used within the room. |
Propagation: | It’s advisable for the average indoor grower not to propagate these because they’re difficult, although it’s worth trying. If you try you will need to take stem tip cuttings, add rooting hormone to the cut, and replant them. Once stem cuttings are planted, use bottom heat to improve your chance of success. Air layering is also a method used to propagate these, which is more successful but difficult for most indoor growers. |
Pruning: | Remove leaves that have seen better days as soon as they start deteriorating (check there are no plant problems). Pruning the top is advised to keep the fiddle leaf at the desired height. You won’t need to cut back any branches or leaves unless some begin growing quite straggly and the plant is becoming leggy. |
Misting and cleaning: | To improve humidity mist the leaves. Also, clean the leaves with a soft sponge and water to remove dust and improve the glossy appearance. |
Common Pests | The Fiddle Leaf Fig plant is a hardy plant that does not generally have pest issues. If anything, spider mites and scale insects are the ones to watch for. |
Potential Problems
- Loss of leaves: Well- the problem could be one of any of these reasons. Some of the lower leaves will naturally drop when the plant is seeing new growth to encourage new leaves to grow. One cause can be a lack of water (although leaf discoloration and becoming dry should be noticeable first) or low humidity (dry air). Also, if you have recently bought the plant or moved it to a new spot then this may have shocked the plant, which it will adjust to. Cold drafts can also cause leaf drop. You will need to go through a process of elimination to find the cause and eliminate the care conditions you are providing correctly first to find the reason leaves are dropping.
- Brown edges on leaves and dry: Humidity is probably too low which is causing the air to be dry, or maybe not enough water or both. This is quite easy to put right by improving the humidity or by watering the plant thoroughly. It’s best to remove the dry and brown-edged leaves.
- Leaves softening and brownish patches: The problem here is more than likely over-watering – cold temperatures or both, which could eventually kill the plant. Check if the soil is too wet from the top and through the holes at the bottom of the pot. If it’s fairly damp or soggy it might be worth removing the old soil and replacing it. You will need to increase heat and maybe lower the humidity in the room to see if this resolves the problem.

Mary is our ultimate indoor gardening oracle. After many years of watching her very own indoor expo bloom, Mary has found us and today she is actively sharing her experience with our readers on a daily basis. Mary is a Political Science graduate, but one who has found a beautiful way of merging her full-time job with a drop of relaxation: indoor gardening. If you have any questions for Mary about house plants, indoor gardening, or caring techniques, drop her a line in the comments sections!
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