The Green Velvet compared to the Alocasia Polly (or Poly) - Alocasia Amazonica is harder to find when needing to buy one.
I am not sure where the name 'Frydek' comes from. However, they are sold as an Alocasia Frydek, A Micholitziana "Frydek" and A. Micholitziana. There is not a great amount of reliable information available for this species.
Flowering: These will flower given the right conditions, but this is unlikely indoors unless you have a very warm environment with high humidity. The flowers are a spathe and spadix type.
Foliage: The foliage is why a grower would purchase a Green Velvet Alocasia, and not for the flowers. The leaves look kind of arrow shaped, displaying thick white veins on a dark green velvet leaf surface.
Ease of growing: Native to South East Asia, this perennial rhizome rooted plant prefers high humidity conditions and warm temperatures.
You will have to work at keeping these happy indoors, but they will bounce back to good health if they struggle during winter, even if grown outdoors (not much left of the leaves but the rhizome will survive).
They are best grown in a greenhouse, although some growers do have success.
|Names:||Green Velvet Alocasia, Alocasia Frydek (common). Alocasia Micholitziana 'Frydek' (botanical/scientific).|
|Max Growth (approx):||Height 2 - 3ft .|
|Poisonous for pets:||Toxic for cats and dogs.|
|Temperature:||The best temperature for this plant is approximately 65-75ºF + (18-24ºC +) or more.|
|Light:||A location within a room that gets plenty of light but not indirect sunlight is suitable. Sat back from a south, east or west facing window is good.|
|Watering:||During the spring and summer water the plant thoroughly when the top soil starts to become slightly dry to the touch. Cut right back on watering during winter.|
|Soil:||Using a fast draining peat based potting mix will do the trick. If your using your own mix it will need to include perlite or sand and bark to improve drainage.|
|Fertilizer:||During spring until the end of summer use a diluted balanced feed (about half the strength recommended on the bottle) once every 2 weeks.|
|Re-Potting:||The Alocasia should not need to be repotted very often after it has matured. Once very 2 years in a slightly bigger pot if it has grown much or if not just make a complete soil change – keeping the same pot. Use a clay pot if you can, because it will help dry the soil out quicker and may improve humidity being under the plant.|
|Humidity:||Mist the leaves as often as possible. You may have to use other methods for increasing the humidity if the plant begins to show lack of humidity issues (brown lea tips or edges are most common signs).|
|Propagation:||These are usually propagated by dividing the plant when it's being re-potted in spring.|
Brown leaf tips or edges: Likely cause is lack of humidity and/or dry air. For ways to increase the humidity see the guide here.
Plant wilting and damp soil: This is a concern because the plant could have roots problems. Wilting can be caused when certain care factors are not correct, but when the soil is damp it's likely to be overwatering. Remove the plant from the pot and check if the roots are healthy, then take further action from there. If the soil is dry it could be the opposite of overwatering, underwatering or possibly not enough light.
Leaves and stems die: If it's winter the plant has likely to have entered into its dormancy period because of the colder and less lighting conditions. Dont worry, slow right down on the water and give it some time to bounce back and regrow.